Hike of the Week: Chilkoot Trail

This is a weekly series that highlights an outstanding day hike or backpacking trip. The goal is to inspire you to want to get out and see these places for yourself. I know for us, just seeing amazing photos and reading about a great hike is enough to get us motivated.

This week's hike is Chilkoot Trail, which leads from Alaska to British Columbia.

Why This Hike?

This historic trail takes you through scenic views and a border crossing. It traverses from Alaska to British Columbia, Canada along an old trade route once used by the Tlingit and Tagish peoples. If you're after a challenging backpacking trip with historical relevance and some amazing biodiversity, then Chilkoot is the way to go. This hike will take you from sea level coastal forests up to a high alpine territory and then ends in some gorgeous boreal forest. However, be ready for elevation, weather, and varied conditions along the way.

Distance: 33 miles / 53 km
Type: Point-to-point
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 6,000 feet+
Best time to visit: Late June-August
The multi-day hike takes about 5 days, but can be done faster.
It ends with a strenuous summit day that will require a 9-mile uphill scramble.
The trailhead is 9 miles out of Skagway, Alaska, and Lake Bennett in Canada has limited access, only through the Canadian Railway.
This is a popular trail and is only suited to summer hiking. Winter hiking is both dangerous and next to impossible.
The route offers varied biodiversity and landscapes.
Learn more about the r ich historical significance before your trip.

Before you pack your bags, here are a few things to keep in mind:

The 6-12 hour scramble up the summit and pass are the biggest challenges for most backpackers.
Only 50 permits a day are granted to backpackers. So, make your reservation early!

How Do I Get There?

The start of this trail is in a small and remote town named Dyea, which is about 11 miles outside of Skagway, Alaska. If you choose to fly, you can book for Juneau, Alaska, and then either take a state ferry or a small plane to Skagway. Once you have reached Skagway, you can get to the trailhead or the Dyea campground through the Dyea-Chilkoot Trail Transport. When you have reached the end of your hike in Lake Bennett, BC, Canada you will need to have a train ticket purchased ahead of time. The train will take you back to Skagway.

Map of Recommended Route

The following map outlines our recommended route. As shown, we recommended planning for a 5-day trip. You can definitely complete the trail in less time. But, five days will give you plenty of opportunities to enjoy the scenery. You must camp in designated camping zones along the trail and sort out which campsite you want to stay in before you go. This trail is heavily used and has a short hiking season, so make sure to get to your designated campsite early on in the day. This is especially true for Happy Camp, as it's used by everyone the day they do the summit and pass.

Click the "Load Interactive Map" button to load the correct map. Once loaded, you can navigate along the route and view recommended campsites.

For even more detailed mapping, including being able to print a copy for yourself, click the "Open in CalTopo" button at the top of the map once it's loaded into view.

Day 1 - Dyea Campground to Finnegan's Point 4.8 miles (7.7 km)
Day 2 - Finnegan's Point to Sheep Camp 7.0 miles (11.2 km)
Day 3 - Sheep Camp to Happy Camp 8.8 miles (14.1 km)
Day 4 - Happy Camp to Bare Loon 9.8 miles (15.7 km)
Day 5 - Bare Loon to Lake Bennett 2.7 miles (4.4 km)

Trail Description

Day 1 - Dyea Campground to Finnegan's Point

The first day on the trail is fortunately not about distance, as you will only be clocking in about five miles to your first campground. The first day is marshy, and absolutely scenic, with lots of well-maintained bridges and boardwalks. When you get to the first campsite you may be pleasantly surprised to find wooden platforms that your tents are meant to go on. The surrounding terrain is not only damp but ecologically sensitive.

Day 2 - Finnegan's Point to Sheep Camp

As you move on to day two, you will be walking a bit farther, all the way to Sheep Camp. As you go along, stop at Canyon City, which is a large campsite that some people stop at on their first night. It features nice log cabins that have built-in bunks, and also some neat remnants of the Gold Rush.

Once you trek through Canyon City, you will start an upward climb that winds all the way up to to a nice suspension bridge. The scenery you see will be lush and green with plenty of fast-moving water. You walk along the river on the way to your second campsite, and because it is a short distance day, stopping for lengthy lunch is a great idea.

Tonight will be the last day on the US side. It's also your last night to stretch and rest before a steep and strenuous ascent. Sheep Camp is huge and often filled because it is the last stop before the Chilkoot Pass. Be sure to get there early enough to score a good spot. Unlike some backpacking trips, there are plenty of rangers on the trail and in the camps, so don’t be surprised if you see one.

Day 3 - Sheep Camp to Happy Camp

Day three is the big climb day. In only 4.8 miles you will be gaining over 2,500 feet of elevation gain. You start out the morning with the big climb in sight, at a place known as the Golden Stairs. The stairs and the pass are also known as The Scales, which is where freight would be weighed before making the final trip over the great pass. Before you push forward, it is a good idea to look at all the artifacts left behind to lighten their load.

Just when you think you have gotten to the summit of the pass you will see a higher point. There are two false summits, each covered in snow throughout the season. Take a break at the first summit, as the climb in the snow is going to be taxing on your body. Once at the top, there is a summit shack with some more rich history to look into and offers you a bit of warmth.

Your decent down the path will lead you through First Crater Lake, then Morrow Lake, with the snow disappearing as you go along. With the US behind you and Canada in front, you will eventually reach Happy Camp. Happy Camp is much like the others with a raised wooden platform to set up on, a cooking hut, and plenty of rangers.

Day 4 - Happy Camp to Bare Loon

Today is sweet relief after the pass climb, so you can take your time at breakfast. Once you hit the trail, you will walk around Deep Lake, and the campsite there, traversing a relatively even trail that wraps through rocky terrain. You will end the long but steady hike in Bare Loon camp, which will have the same amenities as the others. It is located on the Bare Loon Lake which has clear and still waters, that are suitable for swimming, but can be a bit chilly!

Day 5 - Bare Loon to Lake Bennett

The last day of the hike is an easy three-mile trot, but make sure you leave yourself enough time to catch the train which usually leaves in the mid-afternoon. The last day of the hike is going to provide you some amazing views, mountains, trees, valleys, and lakes. You only have three miles to go till the end of the trail, where you will get a chance to see the renovated and historic St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church. It was built in the Gold Rush era and stands today as a reminder of all those travels. The end of Chilkoot drops you off in Bennett, British Columbia. Be sure to get to the train station a bit early for some warm tea and a few treats.

What Will I Need?

The Chilkoot Trail has a strong reputation for bears, of all sorts, both along the trail and at campsites. Occasionally, the trail and sites will be closed due to bear activity. An essential for your packing list is a bear-proof canister for your food and food scraps. As this is a pack-in, pack-out trail, you will want to make sure to have a big enough canister for your waste as well.

As we mentioned, the weather on the trail changes rapidly. You'll need to bring gear for rain, sun, and even snow on the pass! Some snow baskets for your trekking poles is a good idea. To keep warm at night, be sure to take a down sleeping bag or quilt that's rated for low temperatures. You may want to get a solid inner body for your backpacking tent too.

You'll want a reliable camp stove for meals and drinks. Titanium pots and mugs are the way to go to save on weight.

If there's anything else you need to complete your pack, visit our full line of high-quality, affordable backpacking gear.

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Shop Ultralight Tarps
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Shop Down Sleeping Bags
Shop Insulated Sleeping Pads
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Shop Folding Trekking Poles
Shop Titanium Cookware
Shop Tent and Tarp Accessories

Finally, to make sure you don't forget something at home, use our Ultimate Backpacker's Packing List. It even includes a convenient printable checklist!

Do I Need a Permit?

The Chilkoot Trail is wildly popular, so it requires early reservations. Before you get your permits, you will also need to know exactly what campsites you are after. If one of the campsites you wanted is booked, do not stress, a lot of campsites are near each other and require only minor alterations to your journey! You can find the reservation information on the National Parks Service website.

Once you've booked the campsites, be sure to book tickets for the train as well. The train ride itself is gorgeous and very scenic. You can also pay a bit extra for a meal.